Following the devastations of World War I, the Art Deco era — an intoxicating whirlwind of hedonistic alive and giant leaps in innovation — blew in, lifting everyone’s spirits. This age is remembered for its cocktail-sipping, fringe-shaking flappers, jazz, and Great Gatsby-esque lifestyle. Additionally, it is famous for its spectacular, bold jewelry. The designs of Art Deco jewelry continue to be widely imitated today.
Women’s fashion dramatically Changed from the 1920s. The brand new, hands-on roles required from girls in the absence of the wartime heroes had transformed the way in the relative formality and limitation of the Edwardian era and the wartime years to fun, elegant, and functional fashions (think Coco Chanel) that emphasized the liberty of contemporary women and enabled them to take part in activities which were previously for guys only. Corsets vanished, hemlines grew shorter. This liberty and sense of fun have been reflected in the new, exciting jewelry styles and styles.
The term”Art Deco” comes in the Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, held in Paris in 1925 — a significant design exhibition mainly devoted to the art of jewelry. The key emphasis of the group was on the institution of art and modern industry.
The Art Deco period was a period of cutting edge industry Methods that brought us the next jewelry innovations:
After the war, platinum was back in play, and a new, more affordable substance called a plate or platinor. These robust materials contributed to light, airy gemstone designs without as much metal required.
Jewelry Giant, Van Cleef & Arpels, developed the significant puzzle setting’ or serti imperceptible (“invisible setting”), which enabled gems to be mounted in such a manner that no metal was visible.
Gem cutters developed ways to cut and shape gems in New and exciting ways, allowing for the age’s glittering mosaic’ designs.
Enameling — which was labor-intensive and pricey — has been replaced by advanced lacquer techniques in the Far East. Chinese workers who had lacquered airplane propellers during WWI started to polish and lacquer jewelry instead.
Synthetic materials like Bakelite became widely Available and used to imitate gemstones, amber, bone and wood, and other organic materials.
A procedure was developed to cultured’ or cultivated’ pearls by implanting pearl-bearing oysters with mother-of-pearl beads. Cultured pearls were produced in abundance, and such stones consequently became an iconic gem for the 1920s.
The Art Deco era’s jewelry designers were eager to break away from Art Nouveau jewelry’s fluid lines and natural motifs. Instead, they embraced modernism and improvements in technological innovation and machines. A new genre of this layout was created — bold, geometric shapes with clean lines and charm. This layout style — also known as”style moderne” — is immediately recognizable and much-coveted (and replicated ) today.
The Expression”Cubism” was frequently used to describe jewelry of the era due to the angles, geometric lines, and symbolic representations utilized.
Cultures Around the world affected the Art Deco era. They introduced new jewelry styles, from Far East Asian themes and Indian gemstone-carving to exotic, new vibrant materials like lapis lazuli, turquoise, and agate.
The ‘Egyptian Revival ‘stands out in particular. New Archeological findings in Egypt, mainly Tutankhamen’s tomb, much inspired Art Deco design ideas. The Pharaohs inspired exceptional mixtures of substances – lapis lazuli with gold, cornelian with turquoise. Lotus blossoms, scarabs, pyramids, and the Eye of Horus are ancient Egyptian themes seen in Art Deco jewelry.
Two Schools of Design
Collaboration Between the various design arts was commonplace from the Art Deco era, and jewelry designs were often created by and with artists that weren’t ‘jewelers’ by commerce. Architects, sculptors, painters, jewelers, and other design artists enriched and motivated each other’s areas enormously through the Art Deco era. The result was a group of jewelry designers referred to as the bijoutiers-artistes, who highlighted design more than intrinsic value. They used gemstones as punctuation’ as opposed to the focus of this piece.
The bijoutiers-jollies in The well-known Parisian jewelry homes, on the other hand, were producing geometric designs from closely packed, calibré cut precious diamonds (frequently colored) to surround a center stone or flank diamonds.
Many unusual Diamond cuts were developed within this time, such as trapeze, half-moon, and triangle cuts. They drew inspiration from the Far East and India, carving designs into gemstones and mixing precious stones with coral, lapis lazuli, agate, turquoise, and rock crystal quartz.
Art Deco Jewellery Styles
Early Art Deco rings were long and delicate, exposed by the new, short hairstyles. They tended to be geometrically shaped, with diamonds and maybe a big, colored gemstone. The late 1920s brought with it monochrome fashions, which showed off the new diamond cuts. There was a trend for rings that doubled up as brooches.
The 1930s saw a transformation in Earring styles, and they bounced up into the ear lobe, onto which they were often trimmed. Large, natural contours such as shells, leaves, and flowers were famous.
The Star necklace to the 1920s was the sautoir. These were overly long and frequently featured a tassel or a chain. Long strands of beads and pearls were worn any which way round the neck, down the front or rear, depending on the dress fashion. Pearl necklaces were worn throughout the day and evening. They were often made with cultivated pearls — a new invention — and flattering against all skin colors.
Shorter bracelets were frequently made with gemstone beads or by mixing diamonds and carved gemstones. They would typically terminate in a plaque-shaped pendant that may sometimes detach to be used as a brooch.
Another popular style was a Multi-strand pearl or bead necklace with gemstone plaques on both sides, in a festoon effect. Spectacular bib necklaces boasted impressive diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires.
Pendants Were a notable feature of Art Deco jewelry. Designs were often geometric and geometric patterns and materials affected by Chinese, ancient Egyptian, and Indian civilizations.
Consistent with the tubular, fringed Dresses of the time, tassels or fringes often swung from the pendants’ underside. Pendants would hang from chains — frequently interspersed with diamonds and pearls — or from silk strings. They would hang at different lengths, depending on the dress they were accompanying.
Art Deco rings are daring and beautiful. You frequently see big, emerald, and step-cut diamonds surrounded by smaller, closely packed diamonds.
Cabochon cut colored gemstones Were popular, as was filigree work, where handmade threads of precious metal were used to make intricate designs. It’s almost impossible to replicate the crisp, elegant filigree work in the 1920s now because most rings are made using wax molds.
Caliber Cut stones and pavé ring settings were also typical of this age, resulting in closely packed layouts with diamonds cut to fit together perfectly, with little if any metal was showing.
Stacked bands set with diamonds Were popular, as were rings made to emulate the piled band effect. Cartier’s three-bankrolling ring’ was created in this period, and the design is still trendy now.
Art Deco bracelets combined all of the era’s fashions — geometric patterns, pavé configurations, carved gemstones, along with other, less valuable materials. Narrow bangles were stacked and jingled along to the day’s jazz music, as did the favorite charm bracelets.
Later in the period, bracelets became wider. Generous, pictorial ‘strap’ bracelets told whole stories, with all the symbolism of carved stone. Cuff bracelets and fashions onto which the versatile clip brooch’ could be attached became popular right now.
English Court etiquette dictated that tiaras are worn to be created with Art Deco design themes and methods for state events. Aside from that, shorter hairstyles supposed that tiaras were substituted with bandeaus, worn farther down, on the brow. Frequently these bandeaus are converted into necklaces or bracelets.
Brooches & Pins
Brooches and pins were extremely Popular in the Art Deco period and were worn on each clothing item, including hats. All manner of eye-catching Art Deco motifs, techniques, and styles were employed. From the 1930s, clip brooches became popular and were often worn in Pairs that may or may not have had frames or pins, enabling them to be worn as One more giant brooch or separately on either side of a dress.